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Post by pcpa on May 21, 2022 12:20:01 GMT 1
Thankyou Hal, yes indeed I looked at Youtube and after sorting the wheat from the chaff found what I needed regarding the choke lever, I had it in the right place and because it only worked at the end of the lever action thought it was incorrect, I had not realised the lever I was pulling (out of sight from where I was working) was actually the throttle and the choke is engaged at maximum lever movement and wide open throttle for starting.
The carb has a fixed jet as you describe with an emulsion tube (without it it couldn't cope with a wide speed range) and a screwed needle adjuster underneath, a seperate idle jet and needle adjustment above the float chamber revealed if the air filter backplate is removed, its as simple as can be.
It may actually have a gasket which extends below as a heatshield, it was very gloomy in his hangar and I have only one eye which needs very good light to see things in detail, on the other hand I can work very well by touch and now recognise things by feel and like most of us have always worked semi blind in engine bays.
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Post by pcpa on May 21, 2022 12:25:38 GMT 1
The choke rod goes behind the governor plate and is only engaged at full throttle, the other link is the governor rod, the engine speed is set with the lever and when it drops under load (cutting grass etc) the centrifugal governor will open the throttle butterfly further to maintain the RPM, there is a long thin auxiliary spring nearly always broken, it serves to pull the linkage together to remove any slop, otherwise the throttle butterfly will oscillate and the engine beat be uneven, as most are broken its the uneven beat that most of us recognise as a Briggs & Stratton, with the spring link and operating correctly they sound more refined like a Honda.
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Post by pcpa on May 21, 2022 12:30:19 GMT 1
I purchased a brand new Honda GX50 engine (made in Thailand to the strictest emissions standards) for a brand new Altrad mixer that a local place was knocking out for €85, it only weighs 4kg!!!!! I removed it from the box, put oil and fuel in it and gingerly & very slowly pulled the starter cord to see that it turned over not realising the ignition was on, it started and ran like a sewing machine only quieter after less than 2" of very slow pull, I swear you could stare at it and will it to start.
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Post by mangetout on May 21, 2022 17:29:52 GMT 1
Sorry everyone. I haven't had time to answer or do more work on the mower. OH has been very unwell. I'll get back to you all when I have another go at it and when he's feeling better. Thank you so much for trying to help me. I do appreciate it.
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Post by mangetout on May 27, 2022 16:00:46 GMT 1
So, problem solved. Cleaned the fuel filter, little bit of dirt but not much. Cleaned the air filter again taking care to remove all the dust and dirt. Then felt under the carb looking for the bowl and found a wire which had come loose from a spade connector. Pushed it back in, apparently its a safety device which is activated when you turn the mower off to cut off the fuel. Don't know which action solved the problem but its run perfectly ever since.
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Post by hal on May 27, 2022 16:21:38 GMT 1
Good! It will be the wire - obviously quite a new mower. It powers, as you say, a safety device. It is the solenoid I mentioned above that shuts everything down on newer Briggs motors. I can safely say that in a million years, I would not have said check for the wire on the 'after fire' solenoid, but something else to file away for the next person  |
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Post by mangetout on May 27, 2022 16:39:23 GMT 1
Glad my efforts will help someone else in the future. I have to say I've never had anything to do with engines before and I'm quite enjoying learning something new.
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Post by limousinlady on May 27, 2022 17:44:54 GMT 1
Brilliant - well done!
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Post by mangetout on Jun 14, 2022 11:30:13 GMT 1
The mower is playing up again despite playing ball for weeks. I've just had the cover off under the seat where the suspension is, and where the safety switches are which turn off the mower if you leave the seat whilst the engine is running. One of the micro switches had come apart. Put back, now runs perfectly. I'm really getting into this mechanics malarkey.
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Aardvark
Non-gamer
Living in soggy 22 and still wondering what's going on.
Posts: 2,172
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Post by Aardvark on Jun 14, 2022 17:40:25 GMT 1
Those so-called safety cutouts are a nuisance. I always bypass them to save problems later. I used to wonder why my machine was running rough. It was the seat cutout cutting the engine every time I bounced over a mole hill.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2022 18:06:58 GMT 1
Glad my efforts will help someone else in the future. I have to say I've never had anything to do with engines before and I'm quite enjoying learning something new. Just let me know when you want to have a look at a chainsaw that revs then cuts out or a couple of doggy strimmers that have good and bad days |
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Post by Polarengineer on Jun 14, 2022 19:25:16 GMT 1
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2022 19:58:19 GMT 1
Others call him Ibis |
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Post by pcpa on Jun 14, 2022 20:56:33 GMT 1
The machines will likely need the carbs stripping and cleaning, probably new diaphragms & seals etc before moving on to fine tuning.
Repair kits cost buttons & Chinese carbs buttons and a half, I have been fitting new carbs and rebuilding the old ones for next year, with modern Ethanol fuels its becoming a regular chore.
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Post by landmannnn on Jun 14, 2022 22:23:48 GMT 1
For my strimmer I recently fitted a new carb that came with fuel line, fuel filter, mixture tool and spark plug. Less than a tenner, so not really worth messing with seals in my opinion.
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